Calibration for printing

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3 comments

  • Avatar
    Kate Williams

    Hi Malcolm,

    Luminar 3 is color-managed. It means that Luminar 3 interprets which color profile is selected on your OS  and adjusts to it. Therefore, let us please check the color profiles for you:

    1. Press the Windows logo key + R.
    2. Type colorcpl in the dialog box that opens and press Enter on your keyboard.
    3. Make a screenshot of the window that opens and send it to us.

    If you have more than one display, select each display you use in the Device dropdown and send us screenshots for each display.

    Please attach the screenshots to your support request at https://skylum.com/support

     

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    Lloyd O'Daniel

    Malcolm,

    Luminar is color-managed (so they say...not very well on Windows IMO) but that likely isn't your issue. It has nothing to do with AI or adjustments you make with software. Prints being too dark is the usual problem with not having a display properly calibrated for the conditions under which the prints are evaluated. The monitor is too bright and this makes you correct too dark.

    Do you have and use a colorimeter such as the Datacolor Spyder or X-rite i1 Display Pro to calibrate your screen? If not, this is fundamental. Also, you need to standardize the lighting you use to view your prints. This should be close to the display so that you can compare screen to print matching. The best full-spectrum bulbs are from solux.net. I use 4 of the MR-16 lamps in two wall mount fixtures but a single in a desk task lamp would do.

    If you have an inkjet printer, this makes things easier. There are printer evaluation files to produce test prints readily available on the internet. Set up your printer and print one that looks good to you. Or, maybe your commercial printer would print one they consider good for you. Then, place that print under your evaluation lighting near your screen. (Obviously, you want to make sure the print light doesn't shine on the screen itself.) Use the colorimeter and software on your display, starting at white point 6500K and luminance between 100-120 cd/m2. The image on the screen should be viewed in Photoshop with softproofing turned on. The Proof setup should be using either the printer profile for your printer and paper combo or a printer profile from the commercial printer for his set up. Then, it just comes down to adjusting white point and luminance by re-calibrating the display until you see a visual match to the print. Those parameters then become your standard for print proofing.

    I'll just about guarantee you that your display will be dimmer than it is now when it matches the print. You can have different calibrations and profiles for the screen if you want. I use at least 3. I have one profile for normal viewing and editing at 6500k 140cd/m2 and max contrast. I have one for prints under my solux room lights at 5800k 110cd/m2 and 300:1 contrast. And, I have one for my GTI print viewing booth at 6500k 200cd/m2 and 300:1.

    Lloyd

     

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    Mal Insch

    Hi Lloyd thanks for your feedback

    you clearly know your stuff and yes I will have to get Spyder calibration if I am to get more prints made. I have gone into my windows settings and checked the colour and tone calibration and everything was correct but they will not be so accurate as something like Spyder. I am still not convinced though that when I use a calibration device to reset my computer it will not make a huge difference.

    Good point on viewing the prints in a good source light a lesson I should know being an artist.

    As for AI technology or any other autoset from any other software in adjusting brightness surely this has nothing to do with what my eyes see or the brightness of my screen but the software is taking all the information and making its own decision. Yes I understand that the dark tones may be darker than I think and its time for me to use calibration.

    One of the great things about Luminar is that when I use AI I don't get any clipping in the histogram, where as using the auto button the result from photoshop whether it be curves or brightness and contrast the result is not always so good. And yes I am beginning to understand that just because I have no clipping in the dark tones they may be darker than I think.

    Thanks again for your feedback.

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